While there are many different varieties of peony's to choose from, here in North Texas it's recommended to go with an early blooming variety so as to not risk the peonies blooming cycle to be affected by our quick to rise summer temperatures.
Tip 1: Peony roots can come in many shapes and sizes.
The size of the root doesn't necessarily correlate with total plant potential, however the more nodes a root contains the more shoots it'll send up and therefore have a bit of a jump start over roots with just a singular node. You usually have no choice of how many nodes your roots will have when they come in, the roots featured below came out of the same bag. The photos below also show the difference between a root with a singular node and one that has 4-5. The ideal planting time for these roots is late fall or early winter here in North Texas.
Tip 2: Location is key
Just to be clear in this article we're talking about herbaceous garden peonies (hardy in zones 3-8) that prefer full sun and not tree peonies (hardy in zones 5-9) that prefer dappled shade. When choosing the spot for your peonies keep in mind that they don't appreciate the hot western sun that we have in Texas but at the same time need at least 6 hours of direct sun. There are multiple solutions for this. Planting them on the eastern side of your home for example or in my case planting taller annuals on the western side of the peonies. The annuals will act as shade as the afternoon wears on.
Tip 3: Proper Preparation
The first thing to remember when unpacking your peonies is to go ahead and set them into a clean bucket with room temperature water. This will re hydrate the roots if they've been sent in dry packaging material. I usually do this for 2-4 hours but a little more or less won't hurt them. While they're soaking you can go ahead and prep the spot that you're going to plant your peonies in. First thing is to dig a hole 12-18 inches deep and about the same width. Next you'll want to back fill your hole with compost/manure, any soil amendments you might want to add and the native soil. This gives your new peony root lots of loose soil and nutrients to thrive on in it's first year.
Tip 4: Don't Plant too Deep
A very underrated but important thing to remember when planting your peony roots is that the nodes/buds need to be exposed to cold weather, the way that we're going to accomplish that is by having them only about 1 inch under the surface of the soil. This will ensure that they're still getting those chilly nighttime temps. It'll feel odd but trust the process. Once planted, water your roots in thoroughly and feel proud that you've started the process of growing one of the most gorgeous plants that this world has to offer.
We get asked all of the time what kind of flowers we can grow here in Texas and as you can see from the list below, your options are quite extensive!
I hope this can be used as a tool for you in your garden where you can see what grows here in North Texas. Some varieties are started in the greenhouse in late winter and early spring to give them a chance to mature before the heat sets in (Snapdragons, Stock, Clarkia). While others are succession planted throughout the year for continual harvests (Celosia, Zinnias, Sunflowers, Amaranthus, Statice).
It should be noted: this list includes most of the things we'll be growing from seed this year but does not include all of bulbs and tubers (gladiolus, tulips, daffodils, dahlias, etc.).
Amaranthus - Velvet Curtains
Asclepias - Branch - Orange
Asclepias - Branch - Swamp
Atriplex - Copper Plume
Basil - Cinnamon
Basil - Lemon
Basil - Original
Butterfly Pea
Campanula (4 packets)
Celosia - Branch - Celway Terracotta
Celosia - Branch - Flamingo Feather
Celosia - Branch - Flamingo Purple
Celosia - Single- Chief Mix
Celosia - Single- Cristata Mix
Celosia Cramers - Branch - Burgundy
Celosia Cramers - Branch - Rose
Celosia Sunday - Branch - Bright Pink
Celosia Sunday - Branch - Cherry
Celosia Sunday - Branch - Wine Red
Centaurea
Clarkia - Elegant Salmon
Clarkia- Godetia - Grace Mix
Cosmos - Double Click Mix
Cosmos - Snow Puff
Dahlia - Giant Mix
Daisy Seeds - Crazy Daisy
Dianthus - Sweet Pink
Dianthus - Volcana Mix
Didiscus - Lacy Lavender
Didiscus - Lacy Pink
Feverfew - Sunny Ball
Feverfew- Tetra White
Feverfew- Virgo
Firmament - Mystery Rose
Firmament- Original
Goldenrod - Golden Baby
Gomphrena - Mix
Gomphrena - Raspberry Cream
Mahogany Hibiscus
Marigold - CoCo Gold
Marigold - Orange
Marigold - Yellow
Nigella - Delft Blue
Nigella - Love-in-a-mist
Orlaya - White Finch
Pampas Plume - Branch - Mix
Persian Cress
Ruby Moon Hyacinth
Rudbeckia - Double Gold
Salvia - Oxford Blue
Saponaria- Pink Beauty
Scabiosa - Triple Berry Mix
Sea Holly - Blue Cap
Shiso
Snapdragon - Costa - Apricot II F1
Snapdragon - Potomac - Berry Blend F1
Snapdragon- Chantilly- Light Pink F1
Snapdragon- Chantilly- Light Salmon F1
Snapdragon- Costa - Mix F1
Snapdragon- Madame Butterfly- F1
Snapdragon- Potomac - Early Sunrise
Snowflakes Baby's Breath
Statice - Apricot
Statice - Formula Mix
Statice- Pastel Mix
Stock - Iron Pastel
Stock - Katz Mix
Sunflower - Autumn Beauty
Sunflower - Branching - Florenza
Sunflower - Branching - Red Hedge
Sunflower - Branching - Sonja
Sunflower - Branching- Buttercream
Sunflower - Mixed
Sunflower - Single - Procut Peach
Sunflower - Single - Procut Red
Sunflower - Single - Procut Red
Sunflower - Single - Whie Lite
Sunflower - Single stem- Teddy Bear
Sunflower - Single- ProCut Bicolor
Sunflower- Branching - Strawberry Blonde
Sunflower- Single - Gold Lite
Sunflower- Single - Plum
Zinnia - Benary - Bright Pink
Zinnia - Benary - Carmine Rose
Zinnia - Benary - Coral
Zinnia - Benary - Purple
Zinnia - Benary - Salmon Rose
Zinnia - Benary - White
Zinnia - Benary - White
Zinnia - Oklah - Carmine
Zinnia - Oklah - Golden
Zinnia - Oklah - Ivory
Zinnia - Oklah - Pink
Zinnia - Oklah - Salmon
Zinnia - Oklah - White
Zinnia - Queen - Lemon Peach
Zinnia - Queen - Lime Orange
Zinnia - Queen - Lime with Blush
Zinnia - Queen - Red Lime
Zinnia- Landscape - Zahara
Zinnia- Mix- Jim Baggett
Zinnia- Persian Carpet
I hope this helps, Happy Gardening!! <3
Creating a flourishing flower farm isn't just about nurturing beautiful blooms; it's also about cultivating healthy soil that serves as the foundation for vibrant plant life. At our organic flower farm, nestled in the heart of Godley Texas, we embarked on a transformative journey to improve our soil composition over three years using a No-Till approach. In this blog post, we'll share our experience, insights, and the remarkable outcomes of our commitment to sustainable and regenerative farming practices.
Year 1: Laying the Groundwork for Change
Three years ago, we recognized the need to address soil health on our flower farm. Our journey began with a comprehensive soil test that revealed imbalances in nutrient levels and soil structure. In our area this meant high alkalinity, low organic matter, non-existent phosphorus levels and so much more. Instead of resorting to conventional tilling, which can disrupt the soil ecosystem, we opted for the No-Till approach. By refraining from mechanical tilling, we preserved the intricate web of microorganisms, fungi, and earthworms that play a crucial role in soil fertility. They really are the backbone to our entire farming operation.
In our first year, we implemented cover cropping along with planting flower crops to protect the soil from erosion, fix nitrogen, and improve overall soil structure. By planting a mix of legumes, grasses, and other cover crops, we added organic matter to the soil, which set the stage for the changes to come.
Year 2: Nurturing Biodiversity and Soil Life
The second year saw a more diverse planting strategy as we introduced a wider range of flowering plants. This not only enriched the aesthetic appeal of our farm but also promoted biodiversity above and below the ground. The presence of various plant species encouraged a diverse microbial community, enhancing nutrient cycling and disease resistance.
To further enhance soil composition, we adopted a practice known as "chop and drop." Instead of removing spent plants, we allowed them to decompose directly in the soil, contributing to organic matter and enriching the soil's microbial life. This practice also helps in retaining moisture, which is essential for our arid climate.
Some other soil problems and solutions we came up with are as follows:
High alkalinity: we add 2 pounds of elemental sulfur to every 100 sq. ft of bed every year to help bring down the ph.
Low Phosphorus levels: every seedling is planted with a pinch of bone meal to make up for the deficiencies in soil. We also use buckwheat as a cover crop whenever possible. Buckwheat has a long tap root that fixes nitrogen within the plant so when we use the "chop and drop" method explained above it adds phosphorus back to the top 4" of soil.
Low Organic Matter: We purchase the best quality compost that we can get our hands on in our area roughly 6 months before we plan on needing to use it. This allows the compost to continue to cook and build biodiversity making it more easily assimilated into the soil.
Year 3: Reaping the Rewards
As we entered the third year of our No-Till journey, the transformation in our soil was evident. The texture had improved, becoming looser and more crumbly, allowing for better root penetration and water infiltration. Our soil's nutrient levels had also become more balanced, leading to healthier and more vibrant blooms.
In this phase, we introduced minimal disturbance planting techniques, carefully placing seeds and transplants directly into the ground without disturbing the soil structure. The result was a healthier root system and reduced weed pressure, as disturbed soil often triggers weed germination.
Conclusion: A Sustainable Path to Success
Our three-year journey into No-Till organic flower farming taught us invaluable lessons about patience, observation, and the incredible resilience of nature. By embracing regenerative practices, we not only transformed our soil composition but also ensured the long-term sustainability of our flower farm. No-Till farming empowered us to work hand in hand with nature, creating a haven where both blooms and soil thrive harmoniously. As stewards of the land, we are inspired to continue this journey, advocating for a healthier ecosystem while reaping the beauty of our labor in each exquisite petal that graces our farm.
Making a nutrient rich potting soil mix at home
As a flower farmer and overall avid home-gardener, I get asked often by my customers about soil! Everyone, including myself when I first began growing, appears to know that soil biology, viability and construction are all crucial elements for any seed starting operation one endeavors to undertake, but it is unclear how many of us know just how important it truly is.
The purpose of this blog post is to outline what I have found to be the best mix of ingredients to use when making your own potting soil at home. I wanted to provide context regarding the knowledge I have attained in my craft over the past few seasons to aid the home-gardener or aspiring farmer to begin with the best foundation that they can get.
If you’re just looking for the Potting Soil Recipe and don’t want all the information about the ingredients then you can skip right to the bottom of the blog post! Remember that gardening is a beautiful melding of art and science. Our sharing of the knowledge and practices that we have found most effective makes all of us a more powerful community of growers!
Compost
A well rounded compost base is the primary ingredient for making effective organic potting soil at home. Nutrient dense and balanced compost is made by decomposing organic materials such as food waste, leaves, and grass clippings. As it decomposes, it releases nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are essential for plant growth. In addition to providing nutrients, organic compost also helps to improve soil structure. It helps to create a porous, well-draining soil structure that allows for the proper exchange of air and water in the soil, which is important for root growth and overall plant health.
Using organic compost in your potting soil is a great way to ensure that your plants are getting the best possible growing medium. When making your own potting soil, you can use homemade compost or purchase it from a garden center. You'll want to look for compost that has been fully decomposed and has a dark, crumbly texture. My advice would be to do adequate research on the compost you source before you purchase it. Personally, I talk to the company I am purchasing my organic compost from to get an idea of what they put in their mix as well as how long that particular aggregate has been “cooking”. This means that the compost has reached a stable state where it no longer heats up or gives off an odor. It is important to know what youre starting with as the compost is such an important part in making your soil blend.
If you are interested in starting the process of creating compost at home, here are reference points to get you going:
Start with the right ingredients: Compost needs a mixture of "browns" (such as dried leaves, straw, and wood chips) and "greens" (such as vegetable scraps, grass clippings, and coffee grounds) to break down properly. Aim for a ratio of about 3:1 browns to greens.
Chop or shred the materials: Smaller pieces will break down faster, so consider using a shredder or a lawnmower to chop up your materials before adding them to the compost pile.
Build the pile in layers: Alternate layers of browns and greens, making sure to moisten each layer as you go. Aim for a pile that is about 3 feet wide and 3 feet tall.
Keep it moist: Compost should be damp, but not wet. If it's too dry, add water; if it's too wet, add more browns.
Turn the pile: Every few weeks, use a pitchfork or shovel to mix up the materials in the pile. This helps to aerate the compost and speed up the decomposition process.
Be patient: Composting takes time. Depending on the materials you use and the conditions in your compost pile, it could take anywhere from a few months to a year for your compost to be ready to use.
Use your compost: Once your compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy, it's ready to use in your garden. Spread it on your flower beds or vegetable garden, or mix it into potting soil to give your plants a nutrient boost.
Coconut Coir
Coconut coir is an increasingly popular choice for making homemade soil mix as it offers numerous benefits that compare favorably to traditionally used peat moss. The fibrous material is derived from coconut husks that have been processed and ground into a fine, sponge-like material while being a lot more environmentally friendly compared to Peat Moss.
One of the primary benefits of using coconut coir is that it is highly absorbent, able to hold up to ten times its weight in water. This helps to ensure that seedlings retain adequate moisture levels during those first few crucial weeks. Coconut coir also has the beneficial characteristic of maintaining a light, airy structure that aids in giving the soil mix proper drainage and a sample supply of oxygen, allowing for better root development and preventing soil compaction. This can lead to healthier plants and increased yields.
In addition to its moisture-retaining properties, coconut coir is also nutrient-rich, containing a range of minerals such as potassium, iron, and copper. These nutrients are slowly released into the soil as the coir decomposes, providing a long-lasting source of plant food.
Coconut coir also has a neutral pH, which helps to balance the acidity of other soil components and creates an ideal environment for plants to grow. Furthermore, using coconut coir in soil mix can be an eco-friendly option as it is a renewable resource that can be sustainably harvested without damaging the environment.
Perlite or vermiculite
Perlite and vermiculite are both made of inorganic minerals and are crucial elements in a good soil mix. In some ways, these elements play a similar role to peat moss in your soil blend. They act to help with water retention in the soil while also maintaining an airy structure that won't waterlog root systems and cause the plant to perish from lack of oxygen. While these elements are similar to peat moss in this sense, both perlite and vermiculite do not contain a significant amount of nutrients for the plant thus requiring the use of these in conjunction with a slow releasing organic material like peat moss.
Perlite is a volcanic rock that is heated to high temperatures to expand it into lightweight, porous particles. It is a commonly used soil amendment to in many gardening applications and benefits soil by improving drainage and aeration. Perlite particles have many tiny cavities that trap air, which helps prevent soil compaction and allows roots to grow more freely. Perlite also helps prevent waterlogging in heavy soils, which can lead to root rot and other plant diseases.
Vermiculite, on the other hand, is a clay mineral that is heated to high temperatures to expand it into lightweight, spongy particles. Like perlite, vermiculite is also used as a soil amendment to improve soil structure. Vermiculite particles are able to hold large amounts of water and nutrients, which, when used in parallel with high organic matter, help slowly release these nutrients to plant roots as needed. This helps to maintain a steady supply of everything a plant needs to survive and thrive early on in the seedling stage. Again, we are doing everything we can to prevent the drying out of the seedling while also not suffocating the root system.
Organic fertilizer
Organic fertilizers play an important role in making a soil mix by providing essential nutrients to plants in a slow-release and natural form. Unlike synthetic fertilizers, organic fertilizers release nutrients slowly over time as they decompose, which can help to maintain a healthy soil ecosystem and support long-term plant growth.
Organic fertilizers are made from natural materials such as animal manure, compost, fish emulsion, and bone meal. They are typically high in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are the three main macronutrients that plants need for healthy growth. Organic fertilizers also contain micronutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, which are important for plant development.
My favorite Organic Fertilizer Additives:
Green Sand: A naturally occurring mineral harvested from the ocean, rich in Potassium.
Bone meal: Made from ground animal bones, bone meal is a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus. It is often used to promote root growth and flower formation in plants.
Blood meal: Made from dried animal blood, blood meal is a high-nitrogen fertilizer that can help plants grow quickly and produce more foliage.
Organic fertilizers play a critical role in making a soil mix by providing slow-release nutrients in a natural form. Examples of organic fertilizers include compost, manure, fish emulsion, bone meal, and blood meal. By using organic fertilizers, gardeners can help maintain a healthy soil ecosystem and promote long-term plant growth.
Worm castings
Worm castings are a rich source of plant nutrients that are essential for healthy plant growth. They contain a balanced blend of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are the three primary macronutrients that plants require in large quantities.
However the reason that I use them in potting soil mix is not necessarily for the nutrients but rather for the large quantity of microorganisms found within it. These microorganisms help to break down organic matter and release nutrients into the soil, while also suppressing harmful pathogens that can damage plant roots. This results in a healthy and vibrant soil ecosystem, which is critical for maintaining plant health and productivity.
Potting Soil RECIPE:
Part = any size container you want to use, just keep that container consistent throughout the entire recipe.
2 parts Compost
2 parts Coconut Coir
1 part Perlite
.5 part Bone Meal
.5 part Blood Meal
.5 part Green Sand
.5 part Worm Castings
Thank you for reading & Happy Gardening!!