Blogs

The boho wedding theme has been popular amoung brides for years and offers sustainable ways to show a couple’s personality through décor. This wedding theme is made for the couples who wants their wedding to be a purposeful gathering and not just another party.   What Is A Boho Wedding? Boho, short for bohemian, is a word used to describe someone artsy and free-spirited, like a modern-day hippie. Boho weddings embrace the best of all things natural and vintage. It combines modern trends with trends of the 60s and 70s. If you want lots of freedom during your wedding planning process, the boho theme is perfect as it encourages mixing textures and colors.   The goal of a boho theme is to provide a calm and inviting atmosphere. This type of wedding embraces and incorporates the nature around it. It brings elements of the homey indoors outside, showing that nature is true home.     Color Boho weddings incorporate tan and beige mixed with deep or dusty colors. However, couples who want to keep their colors simple and light only use tan, beige, and white. Color combinations for a boho wedding will depend on the season. Fall and Winter boho weddings look best using deeper colors such as terracotta, maroon, and forest green. Spring and Summer weddings look best with lighter colors such as mustard, sage, and dusty pink. These colors can be used interchangeably based upon what the couple decides looks best.   Textures The four most essential textures that should be incorporated into a boho wedding are wood, wicker, lace, and fringe. Wood and wicker will bring a homey vibe to your space, but you also want to include those vintage, free-spirited textures such as lace and fringe. If you’re looking for a way to incorporate color into different textures, think about using velvet and/or stained glass. Velvet looks beautiful in almost any color and is the perfect texture for colder seasons. Stained glass is so unique and can tie in all of your wedding colors.   Decor Donkeys- Take some wedding pictures with a donkey, you won’t regret it. The wedding donkeys started as a Greek tradition where the donkey escorts the bride to the ceremony. Now, wedding donkeys act as photo ops and beer burros. This will add so much character to your wedding photos and your guests will love getting to interact and take pictures with an animal. Rugs- Remember that one of the goals of a boho wedding is to bring the cozy indoors outside. Whether it’s down the aisle or on the dance floor, rugs are great way to accomplish this and let your guests know that it’s okay to take their shoes off. Thrifted Pieces- Thrifting décor is the perfect way to add that vintage feel to your boho wedding while mixing different colors and textures. Lots of couples' thrift glassware so their guests have their own unique table set. Also, the textures talked about earlier can easily be found in thrift stores. Give it a shot because, not only is it affordable, it’s a great way to practice sustainability.     Floral Boho style wedding florals exchange greenery for statements of pampas grass and dried palm with flowers of different textures, shapes, and sizes. Boho floral arrangements are asymmetrical and put loosley put together giving them a natural appearance. Dried flowers pair well with boho color schemes and add that vintage feel to your wedding. Consider these aspects when designing your arrangment or consulting with your florist and your graunteed to have the perfect boho floral arrangements.     Venue Ask yourself these questions when choosing a venue for your boho wedding:   Are my wedding colors going to blend into the space? If forest green is the color of your bridesmaid dresses, avoid getting married in a forest so they don’t blend into the background.   Can everyone move freely between indoors to outdoors? Outdoor spaces are ideal for a boho wedding. However, if you decide to hold the reception indoors, it is best to find a venue that allows guests to move freely inside and outside. This way the nature around your wedding can still be embraced with the practicality of being indoors.   Does this place embody the aspects of a bohemian style wedding? If you’re getting married outdoors, consider your biome. A forest or desert will be a lot more aesthetically pleasing for a boho wedding than getting married in a field of wildflowers or snow. If you are getting married indoors, make sure the venue encapsulates what a bohemian wedding is, cozy, vintage and free-spirited.   I found the perfect outdoor wedding venue, but what about rain? Consider renting a tent. A tent will offer protection from rain and a place to hang arrangements. It’s also the best way to nail that free-spirited aspect of a boho wedding through a venue.     If you love all things vintage, free-spirited, and want to embrace nature in your wedding, a bohemian wedding is right up your alley. Answer the questions in our bridal survey to see if a bohemian style wedding is right for you!

One thing you’ll want to take advantage of this fall are the free seeds sitting in your garden. If you want to learn how to harvest and store your seeds keep reading! As cooler weather arrives, you will notice some of the flowers in your garden start to dry out. These are the flowers you will want to harvest seeds from, but make sure they are COMPLETELY dry. Make sure you harvest your seeds on a dry day. If it’s raining outside and the seed head is wet, there is a higher chance of it getting moldy. Let’s look at some of the seed heads in the garden and see if they’re ready to be harvested.    Trait 1     As you can see in the picture above, the seed head to the left is still bright and fluffy. Therefore, it is still developing. The seed head to the right, however, looks brown and hard to the touch meaning it’s dry and ready to harvest. (Gomphrena is shown above)   Trait 2     The seed head to the right is still too green to harvest seeds from. However, the seed head to the left broke apart very easily indicating it is mature. (Scabiosa is shown above)   Trait 3     A pro tip to help decipher whether a flower’s seeds are ready to be harvested or not, especially zinnias, is by looking at the stem. If the stem has began to turn hard and brown, like the stem on the right of this photo, then your seeds are ready to harvest.   Pro Tip     Some flowers need a little extra work to harvest seeds, like celosia. The first thing you want to do is remove the seed heads from the bottom of the stem. Rub them together between your hands to remove the scruff and the black pieces left are your seeds.   Storage It is best to keep your seeds stored in an envelope so there is no chance of condensation getting inside, but a paper bag can work just as well. Keeping your seeds dry is important so they do not germinate or mold before you are ready to plant them. Let your seeds dry for a week before storing them in a cool, dry place. If you are worried about your seeds expiring, storing your seeds in the refrigerator well help them last for years.   We hope you are loving our blog! Don’t forget to add harvesting seeds to your Fall to-do list so you can plant more flowers in the seasons to come.

How far in advance should I book my wedding florist? Book your florist AT LEAST 3-6 months ahead of your wedding date. Consider the popularity of your florist and if you are getting married during peak wedding season, October, November, April, and May. Wedding florists typically have a cap on how many weddings they will take a day. So, if you have chosen a popular date to get married on, it is best to book your wedding florist a year or more in advance. Also, booking this far in advance allows room for changes to be made.   Can I expect delivery to be an additional cost? You can expect delivery to be anywhere from 10-15% of your floral item total (pretax). The last thing you want to add on top of wedding stress is a charge or fee you didn’t know about. Your florist may offer packages that include the transition and tear down of flowers after the delivery and set up. Discuss with your florist these options and be prepared to pay a little more than 10-15% of your floral item for the time the florist is having to keep the team at the venue. Delivery and setup- Florist delivers and arranges the flowers but leaves after setup. Transition- Florist delivers and arranges the flowers and stays to transfer floral pieces from the ceremony space to the reception space. Teardown and clean up- Florist stays the whole wedding day to accomplish delivering and setting up, transitioning, and tearing down and cleaning up after the wedding is over.       Where should I focus my floral budget? The ceremony space, table centerpieces, and bridal bouquet. This all depends on what you prioritize. Focusing your floral budget on the ceremony space is best if you are wanting to get more out of your photos. If you prioritize your reception space, it may be best to spend more on the table centerpieces because that is what guests will be looking at the most and possibly be taking home. Your bridal bouquet is the most personal floral piece of the entire wedding and should be focused on if you prioritize up close photos like your bridal portraits.   Can I repurpose my ceremony flowers into my reception space? Absolutely! There are a variety of ways to repurpose your flowers! Considering how much you are paying for flowers, you want to make sure you are getting as much out of them as possible. Instead of asking your florist to make an arrangement for the sweetheart table, see if you can use your bridal bouquet as the centerpiece. We have had some couples ask us to move their floral nest from their ceremony space to somewhere in their reception space such as the head table or mantle. It is even possible to take apart the floral nest and repurpose it throughout different parts of the reception space, as seen below.     How do silk flowers compare to fresh ones? Silk flowers are great because they don’t need water to last. However, these flowers often lack a realistic look. The best place to use silk flowers is an area where they won’t be viewed up close, such as a hanging floral arrangement. Fresh flowers are preferable for up-close, personal arrangements, such as bouquets and centerpieces. However, consider that out of water they may not look as well as when they were arranged. It should be noted that silk and fresh flowers are difficult to color match, so we try to avoid using them together.   Can I add décor items to my arrangements? Yes, either they will be priced in, rented, or you will have to bring them to the florist. Communicate with your florist if you can rent pieces, such as vases, or if they will have to be purchased. Wedding guests sometimes assume they can take home table arrangements, so communicating with your florist before hand can help avoid this confusion and any unwanted charges. Providing a list of decorative elements early on will help the florist plan if they need to order the pieces or if you need to provide them.     Will I be able to preserve my flowers after the wedding? Yes, but have a plan. If you want to preserve your flowers it is important that you keep them as fresh as possible. Keep them in a cool space in water. You will likely have to overnight mail your flowers, so make arrangements for you or a trusted person to do this between the wedding and honeymoon. Often times florists do not preserve flowers, so finding a company that can is as important as choosing a florist before your wedding.   Can I change my mind after our consultation? The further out from the wedding the more flexible your florist can be. A good rule of thumb is if you want to make changes to design, try to make those changes 2 months before the wedding date. If you have to change the number of florals needed, make sure this is communicated with your florist no less than 1 month out.   Can I have flowers that aren’t in season? If the flowers you want are not in season, talk to your florist about similar flowers that can be used as an alternative. Typically, florists can still find flowers that aren’t in season, but keep in mind the flowers may be more expensive or harder to source.

          Creating any floral arrangement for an event starts with processing your flowers so they can look as if they were picked day of.   Sourcing your flowers           The first step is figuring out where you want to get your flowers from. You can get your flowers from a local farm (like ours), floral shop, grocery store, or online. You can even grow your own! You want to make sure you source your flowers 3-4 days before the event. This way you have time to make your floral arrangements and they will still be fresh by the time of the event.           Typical floral arrangements consist of four different types of flowers: focal, secondary, filler flowers, and greens. Focal flowers are generally going to be face flowers, such as peonies and dahlias. You want to make sure whatever flowers you pick to be your focal flowers stand out and make a statement.                       Your secondary flowers are going to be a little smaller than your focal flowers and you want to make sure that these flowers compliment your focal flowers. Some examples are zinnias, tulips, and snapdragons.               Filler flowers are generally small clusters of flowers that can be added into the empty space of any bouquet or arrangement to make it appear fuller. Green mist/dara caucus are some great options. Some of my other favorites are wax flower and statice.                 Lastly, you want to pick some greenery. The purpose of adding greenery to your arrangement is to add volume and make it look natural. FUN TIP: Incorporate herbs! This will make the arrangement smell great. In the picture below we have lemon basil.     Storage             The first thing you’ll want to do is make a fresh cut at the bottom of all of your stems. Remove any unwanted foliage and thorns (if applicable) from the bottom 2/3 of the stem. If going for a garden style look leave more foliage on the stem as long as the foliage is in good shape. QUICK TIP: An easy way to remove thorns is by pressing on the side of them until they pop off or using scissors or a knife to shave the thorns off.                       You want to store your flowers in cool water. Two gallon Home Depot buckets work great because of their height. Fill your bucket with about 2 inches of water. If the flowers in your bucket have a stockier stem, fill the bucket about 3 inches. Make sure no foliage is in the water, you want to keep your water as clean as possible. Repeat this process every two days to ensure your flowers always have fresh, clean water. If you don’t have a cooler, store your flowers in a cool dark place away from fresh fruit. As fruit goes bad, the gases released can cause the flowers to brown prematurely. Also, keep your flowers away from air vents so they do not have direct air blowing on them. Doing this ensures that your flowers will last until they are ready to be used.           Here’s what your flowers should look like before and after they are processed.       Here’s some bonus tips for creating your arrangement!           Your flowers are fresh, but you want them to also look in full bloom for your arrangement. If you are working with roses, hold the stem with the flower facing down, as if you were clapping, and roll it back and forth between your hands. Doing this will open the face of the flower and give it more volume.           You can make your carnation flower look like a poppy by using these steps: 1.     Pull down on the outer green petals 2.     Spread the carnation head 3.     Pinch out the center petals until the green center is exposed             After we processed our flowers, here’s how our bride’s bouquet looked the day of the wedding!                   Good news! We’re going to be putting out blog posts weekly! Be sure to follow our social media and sign up for our newsletter to stay up to date with our blog.

          We love it when our brides come to us with new ideas. Last week we created the most beautiful piece of floral work for one of our brides, a floating flower photo backdrop.            This is easy to make at home and is the perfect photo opportunity at weddings, showers, and birthday or graduation parties. You and your guests are going to love the magic this backdrop brings to photos!   Time: 2-4 hrs Supplies: Needle, Fishing Line, Metal Frame/PVC   How We Did It             The first step to creating any floral piece is to select your flowers. One of the best things about this backdrop is that there is so much room for creativity. You can select almost any flowers you want, big or small. Go with a color scheme or something abstract, it’s all up to you!             When selecting your flowers make sure you pick ones that can stand being out of water for a while and still look nice. A good rule of thumb is that if the flower’s petals are thin and delicate they probably will not do well out of water. Some good options are roses, carnations, mums, zinnias, spray roses and poms. Try to stay away from anemones, hydrangeas, ranunculus and scabiosa.              Start by cutting all the stems off your flowers. Cut a piece of fishing line about 4 inches more than the height of your backdrop. Thread your fishing line through the needle and secure it with a double knot. It’s important to use a fishing line not only because it is super strong, but it’s nearly invisible. This is what is going to give the flowers that floating illusion.             After you have threaded your needle, stick it through the base of your flower. Pull the needle and fishing line all the way through until your flower is at the end of the line. Make sure to leave a little extra line for when you tie it to your frame.             Secure your flower in place on the line with a double knot. Repeat the process with another flower about a foot from the last one. Keep in mind when stringing your flowers that you want to work from the end with no needle to the end with the needle.           When your string of flowers is finished it should look like this:           Use the extra line left on the end to tie the string to your frame. Metal frames can be purchased on Amazon. Here’s a link to one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6GBY3RC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share            However, if you are looking for a cheaper alternative PVC pipe can work just as well. Get a PVC pipe the desired length of your backdrop and string some of that fishing line through leaving a generous amount left on each side. Using that extra line coming out of each side of the pipe, tie your PVC pipe where you want to hang your backdrop. If there is nowhere to hang it from, you can use command hooks.              There are so many ways you can add your own personal touch to this floating floral backdrop. Having an event in the evening? Add string lights to brighten up the space! Another idea is to tie some ribbon into bows in between the flowers. This can add so much personality and texture to your backdrop, and the bows will look like they are floating too!   Tips! You don’t have to be consistent with the placement of your flowers and the length of your line. When the flowers are staggered it looks a lot more natural, as if they were falling from the sky. Try to avoid putting the same flowers next to one another. Having a cluster of flowers in the backdrop can be distracting and look unnatural.  Stick your needle through the thickest part of the flower. This is going to help your flowers face forward rather than face down once they are hung. Work together! This project can be time consuming. We were able to get ours done in about 2 and a half hours between 3 people.               If you decide to make a floating flower backdrop, we would love to see your work! Send your pictures to our Instagram @b.blumenflowerfarm, or tag us in your photos. Make sure to check out our social media to see more of our floating floral backdrop from last week’s wedding and other ideas for your future event.

We get asked all of the time what kind of flowers we can grow here in Texas and as you can see from the list below, your options are quite extensive! I hope this can be used as a tool for you in your garden where you can see what grows here in North Texas. Some varieties are started in the greenhouse in late winter and early spring to give them a chance to mature before the heat sets in (Snapdragons, Stock, Clarkia).  While others are succession planted throughout the year for continual harvests (Celosia, Zinnias, Sunflowers, Amaranthus, Statice).  It should be noted: this list includes most of the things we'll be growing from seed this year but does not include all of bulbs and tubers (gladiolus, tulips, daffodils, dahlias, etc.).  Amaranthus - Velvet Curtains Asclepias - Branch - Orange Asclepias - Branch - Swamp Atriplex - Copper Plume Basil - Cinnamon Basil - Lemon Basil - Original Butterfly Pea Campanula (4 packets) Celosia - Branch - Celway Terracotta Celosia - Branch - Flamingo Feather Celosia - Branch - Flamingo Purple Celosia - Single- Chief Mix Celosia - Single- Cristata Mix Celosia Cramers - Branch - Burgundy Celosia Cramers - Branch - Rose Celosia Sunday - Branch - Bright Pink Celosia Sunday - Branch - Cherry Celosia Sunday - Branch - Wine Red Centaurea Clarkia - Elegant Salmon Clarkia- Godetia - Grace Mix Cosmos - Double Click Mix Cosmos - Snow Puff Dahlia - Giant Mix Daisy Seeds - Crazy Daisy Dianthus - Sweet Pink Dianthus - Volcana Mix Didiscus - Lacy Lavender Didiscus - Lacy Pink Feverfew - Sunny Ball Feverfew- Tetra White Feverfew- Virgo Firmament - Mystery Rose Firmament- Original Goldenrod - Golden Baby Gomphrena - Mix Gomphrena - Raspberry Cream Mahogany Hibiscus Marigold - CoCo Gold Marigold - Orange Marigold - Yellow Nigella - Delft Blue Nigella - Love-in-a-mist Orlaya - White Finch Pampas Plume - Branch - Mix Persian Cress Ruby Moon Hyacinth Rudbeckia - Double Gold Salvia - Oxford Blue Saponaria- Pink Beauty Scabiosa - Triple Berry Mix Sea Holly - Blue Cap Shiso Snapdragon - Costa - Apricot II F1 Snapdragon - Potomac - Berry Blend F1 Snapdragon- Chantilly- Light Pink F1 Snapdragon- Chantilly- Light Salmon F1 Snapdragon- Costa - Mix F1 Snapdragon- Madame Butterfly- F1 Snapdragon- Potomac - Early Sunrise Snowflakes Baby's Breath Statice - Apricot Statice - Formula Mix Statice- Pastel Mix Stock - Iron Pastel Stock - Katz Mix Sunflower - Autumn Beauty Sunflower - Branching - Florenza Sunflower - Branching - Red Hedge Sunflower - Branching - Sonja Sunflower - Branching- Buttercream Sunflower - Mixed Sunflower - Single - Procut Peach Sunflower - Single - Procut Red Sunflower - Single - Procut Red Sunflower - Single - Whie Lite Sunflower - Single stem- Teddy Bear Sunflower - Single- ProCut Bicolor Sunflower- Branching - Strawberry Blonde Sunflower- Single - Gold Lite Sunflower- Single - Plum Zinnia - Benary - Bright Pink Zinnia - Benary - Carmine Rose Zinnia - Benary - Coral Zinnia - Benary - Purple Zinnia - Benary - Salmon Rose Zinnia - Benary - White Zinnia - Benary - White Zinnia - Oklah - Carmine Zinnia - Oklah - Golden Zinnia - Oklah - Ivory Zinnia - Oklah - Pink Zinnia - Oklah - Salmon Zinnia - Oklah - White Zinnia - Queen - Lemon Peach Zinnia - Queen - Lime Orange Zinnia - Queen - Lime with Blush Zinnia - Queen - Red Lime Zinnia- Landscape - Zahara Zinnia- Mix- Jim Baggett Zinnia- Persian Carpet   I hope this helps, Happy Gardening!! <3 

  Creating a flourishing flower farm isn't just about nurturing beautiful blooms; it's also about cultivating healthy soil that serves as the foundation for vibrant plant life. At our organic flower farm, nestled in the heart of Godley Texas, we embarked on a transformative journey to improve our soil composition over three years using a No-Till approach. In this blog post, we'll share our experience, insights, and the remarkable outcomes of our commitment to sustainable and regenerative farming practices. Year 1: Laying the Groundwork for Change Three years ago, we recognized the need to address soil health on our flower farm. Our journey began with a comprehensive soil test that revealed imbalances in nutrient levels and soil structure. In our area this meant high alkalinity, low organic matter, non-existent phosphorus levels and so much more. Instead of resorting to conventional tilling, which can disrupt the soil ecosystem, we opted for the No-Till approach. By refraining from mechanical tilling, we preserved the intricate web of microorganisms, fungi, and earthworms that play a crucial role in soil fertility. They really are the backbone to our entire farming operation.  In our first year, we implemented cover cropping along with planting flower crops to protect the soil from erosion, fix nitrogen, and improve overall soil structure. By planting a mix of legumes, grasses, and other cover crops, we added organic matter to the soil, which set the stage for the changes to come. Year 2: Nurturing Biodiversity and Soil Life The second year saw a more diverse planting strategy as we introduced a wider range of flowering plants. This not only enriched the aesthetic appeal of our farm but also promoted biodiversity above and below the ground. The presence of various plant species encouraged a diverse microbial community, enhancing nutrient cycling and disease resistance. To further enhance soil composition, we adopted a practice known as "chop and drop." Instead of removing spent plants, we allowed them to decompose directly in the soil, contributing to organic matter and enriching the soil's microbial life. This practice also helps in retaining moisture, which is essential for our arid climate. Some other soil problems and solutions we came up with are as follows:  High alkalinity: we add 2 pounds of elemental sulfur to every 100 sq. ft of bed every year to help bring down the ph.  Low Phosphorus levels: every seedling is planted with a pinch of bone meal to make up for the deficiencies in soil. We also use buckwheat as a cover crop whenever possible. Buckwheat has a long tap root that fixes nitrogen within the plant so when we use the "chop and drop" method explained above it adds phosphorus back to the top 4" of soil.  Low Organic Matter: We purchase the best quality compost that we can get our hands on in our area roughly 6 months before we plan on needing to use it. This allows the compost to continue to cook and build biodiversity making it more easily assimilated into the soil.  Year 3: Reaping the Rewards As we entered the third year of our No-Till journey, the transformation in our soil was evident. The texture had improved, becoming looser and more crumbly, allowing for better root penetration and water infiltration. Our soil's nutrient levels had also become more balanced, leading to healthier and more vibrant blooms. In this phase, we introduced minimal disturbance planting techniques, carefully placing seeds and transplants directly into the ground without disturbing the soil structure. The result was a healthier root system and reduced weed pressure, as disturbed soil often triggers weed germination. Conclusion: A Sustainable Path to Success Our three-year journey into No-Till organic flower farming taught us invaluable lessons about patience, observation, and the incredible resilience of nature. By embracing regenerative practices, we not only transformed our soil composition but also ensured the long-term sustainability of our flower farm. No-Till farming empowered us to work hand in hand with nature, creating a haven where both blooms and soil thrive harmoniously. As stewards of the land, we are inspired to continue this journey, advocating for a healthier ecosystem while reaping the beauty of our labor in each exquisite petal that graces our farm.

Making a nutrient rich potting soil mix at home   As a flower farmer and overall avid home-gardener, I get asked often by my customers about soil! Everyone, including myself when I first began growing, appears to know that soil biology, viability and construction are all crucial elements for any seed starting operation one endeavors to undertake, but it is unclear how many of us know just how important it truly is.  The purpose of this blog post is to outline what I have found to be the best mix of ingredients to use when making your own potting soil at home. I wanted to provide context regarding the knowledge I have attained in my craft over the past few seasons to aid the home-gardener or aspiring farmer to begin with the best foundation that they can get. If you’re just looking for the Potting Soil Recipe and don’t want all the information about the ingredients then you can skip right to the bottom of the blog post! Remember that gardening is a beautiful melding of art and science. Our sharing of the knowledge and practices that we have found most effective makes all of us a more powerful community of growers! Compost A well rounded compost base is the primary ingredient for making effective organic potting soil at home. Nutrient dense and balanced compost is made by decomposing organic materials such as food waste, leaves, and grass clippings. As it decomposes, it releases nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are essential for plant growth. In addition to providing nutrients, organic compost also helps to improve soil structure. It helps to create a porous, well-draining soil structure that allows for the proper exchange of air and water in the soil, which is important for root growth and overall plant health. Using organic compost in your potting soil is a great way to ensure that your plants are getting the best possible growing medium. When making your own potting soil, you can use homemade compost or purchase it from a garden center. You'll want to look for compost that has been fully decomposed and has a dark, crumbly texture. My advice would be to do adequate research on the compost you source before you purchase it. Personally, I talk to the company I am purchasing my organic compost from to get an idea of what they put in their mix as well as how long that particular aggregate has been “cooking”. This means that the compost has reached a stable state where it no longer heats up or gives off an odor. It is important to know what youre starting with as the compost is such an important part in making your soil blend. If you are interested in starting the process of creating compost at home, here are reference points to get you going: Start with the right ingredients: Compost needs a mixture of "browns" (such as dried leaves, straw, and wood chips) and "greens" (such as vegetable scraps, grass clippings, and coffee grounds) to break down properly. Aim for a ratio of about 3:1 browns to greens. Chop or shred the materials: Smaller pieces will break down faster, so consider using a shredder or a lawnmower to chop up your materials before adding them to the compost pile. Build the pile in layers: Alternate layers of browns and greens, making sure to moisten each layer as you go. Aim for a pile that is about 3 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Keep it moist: Compost should be damp, but not wet. If it's too dry, add water; if it's too wet, add more browns. Turn the pile: Every few weeks, use a pitchfork or shovel to mix up the materials in the pile. This helps to aerate the compost and speed up the decomposition process. Be patient: Composting takes time. Depending on the materials you use and the conditions in your compost pile, it could take anywhere from a few months to a year for your compost to be ready to use. Use your compost: Once your compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy, it's ready to use in your garden. Spread it on your flower beds or vegetable garden, or mix it into potting soil to give your plants a nutrient boost. Coconut Coir  Coconut coir is an increasingly popular choice for making homemade soil mix as it offers numerous benefits that compare favorably to traditionally used peat moss. The fibrous material is derived from coconut husks that have been processed and ground into a fine, sponge-like material while being a lot more environmentally friendly compared to Peat Moss.  One of the primary benefits of using coconut coir is that it is highly absorbent, able to hold up to ten times its weight in water. This helps to ensure that seedlings retain adequate moisture levels during those first few crucial weeks. Coconut coir also has the beneficial characteristic of maintaining a light, airy structure that aids in giving the soil mix proper drainage and a sample supply of oxygen, allowing for better root development and preventing soil compaction. This can lead to healthier plants and increased yields. In addition to its moisture-retaining properties, coconut coir is also nutrient-rich, containing a range of minerals such as potassium, iron, and copper. These nutrients are slowly released into the soil as the coir decomposes, providing a long-lasting source of plant food.  Coconut coir also has a neutral pH, which helps to balance the acidity of other soil components and creates an ideal environment for plants to grow. Furthermore, using coconut coir in soil mix can be an eco-friendly option as it is a renewable resource that can be sustainably harvested without damaging the environment.  Perlite or vermiculite  Perlite and vermiculite are both made of inorganic minerals and are crucial elements in a good soil mix. In some ways, these elements play a similar role to peat moss in your soil blend. They act to help with water retention in the soil while also maintaining an airy structure that won't waterlog root systems and cause the plant to perish from lack of oxygen. While these elements are similar to peat  moss in this sense, both perlite and vermiculite do not contain a significant amount of nutrients for the plant thus requiring the use of these in conjunction with a slow releasing organic material like peat moss.  Perlite is a volcanic rock that is heated to high temperatures to expand it into lightweight, porous particles. It is a commonly used soil amendment to in many gardening applications and benefits soil by improving drainage and aeration. Perlite particles have many tiny cavities that trap air, which helps prevent soil compaction and allows roots to grow more freely. Perlite also helps prevent waterlogging in heavy soils, which can lead to root rot and other plant diseases. Vermiculite, on the other hand, is a clay mineral that is heated to high temperatures to expand it into lightweight, spongy particles. Like perlite, vermiculite is also used as a soil amendment to improve soil structure. Vermiculite particles are able to hold large amounts of water and nutrients, which, when used in parallel with high organic matter, help slowly release  these nutrients to plant roots as needed. This helps to maintain a steady supply of everything a plant needs to survive and thrive early on in the seedling stage. Again, we are doing everything we can to prevent the drying out of the seedling while also not suffocating the root system. Organic fertilizer  Organic fertilizers play an important role in making a soil mix by providing essential nutrients to plants in a slow-release and natural form. Unlike synthetic fertilizers, organic fertilizers release nutrients slowly over time as they decompose, which can help to maintain a healthy soil ecosystem and support long-term plant growth. Organic fertilizers are made from natural materials such as animal manure, compost, fish emulsion, and bone meal. They are typically high in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are the three main macronutrients that plants need for healthy growth. Organic fertilizers also contain micronutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, which are important for plant development. My favorite Organic Fertilizer Additives: Green Sand: A naturally occurring mineral harvested from the ocean, rich in Potassium.  Bone meal: Made from ground animal bones, bone meal is a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus. It is often used to promote root growth and flower formation in plants. Blood meal: Made from dried animal blood, blood meal is a high-nitrogen fertilizer that can help plants grow quickly and produce more foliage. Organic fertilizers play a critical role in making a soil mix by providing slow-release nutrients in a natural form. Examples of organic fertilizers include compost, manure, fish emulsion, bone meal, and blood meal. By using organic fertilizers, gardeners can help maintain a healthy soil ecosystem and promote long-term plant growth. Worm castings  Worm castings are a rich source of plant nutrients that are essential for healthy plant growth. They contain a balanced blend of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are the three primary macronutrients that plants require in large quantities.  However the reason that I use them in potting soil mix is not necessarily for the nutrients but rather for the large quantity of microorganisms found within it. These microorganisms help to break down organic matter and release nutrients into the soil, while also suppressing harmful pathogens that can damage plant roots. This results in a healthy and vibrant soil ecosystem, which is critical for maintaining plant health and productivity. Potting Soil RECIPE:  Part = any size container you want to use, just keep that container consistent throughout the entire recipe. 2 parts Compost 2 parts Coconut Coir 1 part Perlite .5 part Bone Meal .5 part Blood Meal .5 part Green Sand  .5 part Worm Castings     Thank you for reading & Happy Gardening!! 

   No matter how well prepared you are as a gardener, nature will always serve up unpleasant and unforeseen surprises at the worst times. Since I began my journey as a flower farmer in north Texas in spring 2020, I have experienced at least one hard freeze event subsequent to planting out my crop of seedlings in late-March, early-April.    These late-season hard freezes are never something a grower looks forward to and can be extremely stressful times due to the fragility seedlings have to harsh temperatures at this young stage of their growth. Protecting your garden or farm from a hard freeze can be a challenging task, but with the right preparation and techniques, it is possible to keep your plants safe and healthy. Below, I will outline 6 strategies that can be used to safeguard your plants in the likely event of an unseasonably late freeze. 1. Cover your plants    Covering your plants can be accomplished in a variety of ways. There are many products available on the market ranging from light frost cloths that can be draped over foliage (give about 4 degrees protection), to heavy duty, multi-layered plastic tarps that require structures like PVC hoop tunnels to create an air-insulated buffer between the plants and the freezing air. For hard freeze events, I would recommend building these types of structures and using the heavy plastic tarps. While these are superior to the lighter frost cloths, it is important to remember that the tarp should not be making direct contact with any foliage of the plants. Any contact will freeze the moisture directly on the foliage causing "leaf-burn" and can irreparably damage the plant. For larger, individual potted plants, an effective structural material are "tomato-cages". These metal structures surround the plant and will keep the plastic tarps from touching any foliage.2. Water your plants    Watering your plants well just before AND after a hard freeze is a terrific method for protecting your plants from damage. I would suggest root watering your plants the day prior to a hard freeze. This will help to insulate the roots by creating a more stable and consistent soil temperature. Do not water so thoroughly as to create puddles of standing water around the plants, but do water enough to completely saturate the soil there-in creating the insulating effect. Watering roots & foliage directly after day-time temperatures restore to above freezing will help keep the roots at this stable temperature, lessen leaf burn from frost and will also protect against any additional dips below freezing that may happen in the proceeding cold nights. The key to remember here is that we are trying to simulate a stable climate for the root systems of plants. The roots are a major control center for plant health and should be prioritized in protecting for the long-term health of the plant. 3. Use mulch    Mulch is yet another effective way to insulate the soil and protect your plants' roots. A layer of mulch covering the roots will have small air gaps in between each fragment of the woody material which can operate similarly to the plastic tarp protecting the foliage. The mulch itself will also act as an insulating layer that will help keep warmth from the ground from escaping and getting pulled from the plant by the freezing air. To accomplish this technique, spread a 1"-3" layer of mulch around the base of your plants. Ensure there is a consistent coverage and none of the plant base is visible. 4. Move potted plants indoors    This one may seem obvious, but if you have potted plants, it's best to move them indoors during a hard freeze. Plants that are in pots do not share nearly the same advantage as those planted in the much more thermally stable ground. It is much easier for potted plants to become damaged in freezing temperatures and may not be able to recover as adequately. As an additional tip, it may be helpful to purchase a small dolly to transport heavy potted plants in and out of the house or garage. 5. Use heat lamps or heating cables    If you have a small area or specific plants that you want to protect, you can use heat lamps or heating cables to keep them warm. The benefit of using heating sources to keep your plants protected is that it is much more comforting to know that they will not be exposed to any extreme temperatures throughout the hard freeze event. On the contrary, if you do have a well insulated area to keep heated, it can be quite cost inefficient to sustain a warm average temperature. I have experienced large increases in my utility bill during rapid freezing events. It should also be noted that there is always a chance that heater fails or a fire occurs due to a malfunction with the heating equipment. In both of these cases, significant damage can occur to both plant and property. Be sure to use these with caution and follow the manufacturer's instructions. 6. Prune your plants    Pruning your plants before a freeze can help to reduce the amount of exposed surface area that a plant has to the freezing air. This can be accomplished by removing any dead or damaged branches and leaves, as these can act as a conduit for the cold.    By following these tips, you can help to protect your garden from a hard freeze and keep your plants safe and healthy. Remember that while you can take steps to protect your garden, there is always a risk of damage or loss during a freeze. Be prepared for the worst and hope for the best.