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Making a nutrient rich potting soil mix at home   As a flower farmer and overall avid home-gardener, I get asked often by my customers about soil! Everyone, including myself when I first began growing, appears to know that soil biology, viability and construction are all crucial elements for any seed starting operation one endeavors to undertake, but it is unclear how many of us know just how important it truly is.  The purpose of this blog post is to outline what I have found to be the best mix of ingredients to use when making your own potting soil at home. I wanted to provide context regarding the knowledge I have attained in my craft over the past few seasons to aid the home-gardener or aspiring farmer to begin with the best foundation that they can get. If you’re just looking for the Potting Soil Recipe and don’t want all the information about the ingredients then you can skip right to the bottom of the blog post! Remember that gardening is a beautiful melding of art and science. Our sharing of the knowledge and practices that we have found most effective makes all of us a more powerful community of growers! Compost A well rounded compost base is the primary ingredient for making effective organic potting soil at home. Nutrient dense and balanced compost is made by decomposing organic materials such as food waste, leaves, and grass clippings. As it decomposes, it releases nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are essential for plant growth. In addition to providing nutrients, organic compost also helps to improve soil structure. It helps to create a porous, well-draining soil structure that allows for the proper exchange of air and water in the soil, which is important for root growth and overall plant health. Using organic compost in your potting soil is a great way to ensure that your plants are getting the best possible growing medium. When making your own potting soil, you can use homemade compost or purchase it from a garden center. You'll want to look for compost that has been fully decomposed and has a dark, crumbly texture. My advice would be to do adequate research on the compost you source before you purchase it. Personally, I talk to the company I am purchasing my organic compost from to get an idea of what they put in their mix as well as how long that particular aggregate has been “cooking”. This means that the compost has reached a stable state where it no longer heats up or gives off an odor. It is important to know what youre starting with as the compost is such an important part in making your soil blend. If you are interested in starting the process of creating compost at home, here are reference points to get you going: Start with the right ingredients: Compost needs a mixture of "browns" (such as dried leaves, straw, and wood chips) and "greens" (such as vegetable scraps, grass clippings, and coffee grounds) to break down properly. Aim for a ratio of about 3:1 browns to greens. Chop or shred the materials: Smaller pieces will break down faster, so consider using a shredder or a lawnmower to chop up your materials before adding them to the compost pile. Build the pile in layers: Alternate layers of browns and greens, making sure to moisten each layer as you go. Aim for a pile that is about 3 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Keep it moist: Compost should be damp, but not wet. If it's too dry, add water; if it's too wet, add more browns. Turn the pile: Every few weeks, use a pitchfork or shovel to mix up the materials in the pile. This helps to aerate the compost and speed up the decomposition process. Be patient: Composting takes time. Depending on the materials you use and the conditions in your compost pile, it could take anywhere from a few months to a year for your compost to be ready to use. Use your compost: Once your compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy, it's ready to use in your garden. Spread it on your flower beds or vegetable garden, or mix it into potting soil to give your plants a nutrient boost. Coconut Coir  Coconut coir is an increasingly popular choice for making homemade soil mix as it offers numerous benefits that compare favorably to traditionally used peat moss. The fibrous material is derived from coconut husks that have been processed and ground into a fine, sponge-like material while being a lot more environmentally friendly compared to Peat Moss.  One of the primary benefits of using coconut coir is that it is highly absorbent, able to hold up to ten times its weight in water. This helps to ensure that seedlings retain adequate moisture levels during those first few crucial weeks. Coconut coir also has the beneficial characteristic of maintaining a light, airy structure that aids in giving the soil mix proper drainage and a sample supply of oxygen, allowing for better root development and preventing soil compaction. This can lead to healthier plants and increased yields. In addition to its moisture-retaining properties, coconut coir is also nutrient-rich, containing a range of minerals such as potassium, iron, and copper. These nutrients are slowly released into the soil as the coir decomposes, providing a long-lasting source of plant food.  Coconut coir also has a neutral pH, which helps to balance the acidity of other soil components and creates an ideal environment for plants to grow. Furthermore, using coconut coir in soil mix can be an eco-friendly option as it is a renewable resource that can be sustainably harvested without damaging the environment.  Perlite or vermiculite  Perlite and vermiculite are both made of inorganic minerals and are crucial elements in a good soil mix. In some ways, these elements play a similar role to peat moss in your soil blend. They act to help with water retention in the soil while also maintaining an airy structure that won't waterlog root systems and cause the plant to perish from lack of oxygen. While these elements are similar to peat  moss in this sense, both perlite and vermiculite do not contain a significant amount of nutrients for the plant thus requiring the use of these in conjunction with a slow releasing organic material like peat moss.  Perlite is a volcanic rock that is heated to high temperatures to expand it into lightweight, porous particles. It is a commonly used soil amendment to in many gardening applications and benefits soil by improving drainage and aeration. Perlite particles have many tiny cavities that trap air, which helps prevent soil compaction and allows roots to grow more freely. Perlite also helps prevent waterlogging in heavy soils, which can lead to root rot and other plant diseases. Vermiculite, on the other hand, is a clay mineral that is heated to high temperatures to expand it into lightweight, spongy particles. Like perlite, vermiculite is also used as a soil amendment to improve soil structure. Vermiculite particles are able to hold large amounts of water and nutrients, which, when used in parallel with high organic matter, help slowly release  these nutrients to plant roots as needed. This helps to maintain a steady supply of everything a plant needs to survive and thrive early on in the seedling stage. Again, we are doing everything we can to prevent the drying out of the seedling while also not suffocating the root system. Organic fertilizer  Organic fertilizers play an important role in making a soil mix by providing essential nutrients to plants in a slow-release and natural form. Unlike synthetic fertilizers, organic fertilizers release nutrients slowly over time as they decompose, which can help to maintain a healthy soil ecosystem and support long-term plant growth. Organic fertilizers are made from natural materials such as animal manure, compost, fish emulsion, and bone meal. They are typically high in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are the three main macronutrients that plants need for healthy growth. Organic fertilizers also contain micronutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, which are important for plant development. My favorite Organic Fertilizer Additives: Green Sand: A naturally occurring mineral harvested from the ocean, rich in Potassium.  Bone meal: Made from ground animal bones, bone meal is a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus. It is often used to promote root growth and flower formation in plants. Blood meal: Made from dried animal blood, blood meal is a high-nitrogen fertilizer that can help plants grow quickly and produce more foliage. Organic fertilizers play a critical role in making a soil mix by providing slow-release nutrients in a natural form. Examples of organic fertilizers include compost, manure, fish emulsion, bone meal, and blood meal. By using organic fertilizers, gardeners can help maintain a healthy soil ecosystem and promote long-term plant growth. Worm castings  Worm castings are a rich source of plant nutrients that are essential for healthy plant growth. They contain a balanced blend of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are the three primary macronutrients that plants require in large quantities.  However the reason that I use them in potting soil mix is not necessarily for the nutrients but rather for the large quantity of microorganisms found within it. These microorganisms help to break down organic matter and release nutrients into the soil, while also suppressing harmful pathogens that can damage plant roots. This results in a healthy and vibrant soil ecosystem, which is critical for maintaining plant health and productivity. Potting Soil RECIPE:  Part = any size container you want to use, just keep that container consistent throughout the entire recipe. 2 parts Compost 2 parts Coconut Coir 1 part Perlite .5 part Bone Meal .5 part Blood Meal .5 part Green Sand  .5 part Worm Castings     Thank you for reading & Happy Gardening!! 

   No matter how well prepared you are as a gardener, nature will always serve up unpleasant and unforeseen surprises at the worst times. Since I began my journey as a flower farmer in north Texas in spring 2020, I have experienced at least one hard freeze event subsequent to planting out my crop of seedlings in late-March, early-April.    These late-season hard freezes are never something a grower looks forward to and can be extremely stressful times due to the fragility seedlings have to harsh temperatures at this young stage of their growth. Protecting your garden or farm from a hard freeze can be a challenging task, but with the right preparation and techniques, it is possible to keep your plants safe and healthy. Below, I will outline 6 strategies that can be used to safeguard your plants in the likely event of an unseasonably late freeze. 1. Cover your plants    Covering your plants can be accomplished in a variety of ways. There are many products available on the market ranging from light frost cloths that can be draped over foliage (give about 4 degrees protection), to heavy duty, multi-layered plastic tarps that require structures like PVC hoop tunnels to create an air-insulated buffer between the plants and the freezing air. For hard freeze events, I would recommend building these types of structures and using the heavy plastic tarps. While these are superior to the lighter frost cloths, it is important to remember that the tarp should not be making direct contact with any foliage of the plants. Any contact will freeze the moisture directly on the foliage causing "leaf-burn" and can irreparably damage the plant. For larger, individual potted plants, an effective structural material are "tomato-cages". These metal structures surround the plant and will keep the plastic tarps from touching any foliage.2. Water your plants    Watering your plants well just before AND after a hard freeze is a terrific method for protecting your plants from damage. I would suggest root watering your plants the day prior to a hard freeze. This will help to insulate the roots by creating a more stable and consistent soil temperature. Do not water so thoroughly as to create puddles of standing water around the plants, but do water enough to completely saturate the soil there-in creating the insulating effect. Watering roots & foliage directly after day-time temperatures restore to above freezing will help keep the roots at this stable temperature, lessen leaf burn from frost and will also protect against any additional dips below freezing that may happen in the proceeding cold nights. The key to remember here is that we are trying to simulate a stable climate for the root systems of plants. The roots are a major control center for plant health and should be prioritized in protecting for the long-term health of the plant. 3. Use mulch    Mulch is yet another effective way to insulate the soil and protect your plants' roots. A layer of mulch covering the roots will have small air gaps in between each fragment of the woody material which can operate similarly to the plastic tarp protecting the foliage. The mulch itself will also act as an insulating layer that will help keep warmth from the ground from escaping and getting pulled from the plant by the freezing air. To accomplish this technique, spread a 1"-3" layer of mulch around the base of your plants. Ensure there is a consistent coverage and none of the plant base is visible. 4. Move potted plants indoors    This one may seem obvious, but if you have potted plants, it's best to move them indoors during a hard freeze. Plants that are in pots do not share nearly the same advantage as those planted in the much more thermally stable ground. It is much easier for potted plants to become damaged in freezing temperatures and may not be able to recover as adequately. As an additional tip, it may be helpful to purchase a small dolly to transport heavy potted plants in and out of the house or garage. 5. Use heat lamps or heating cables    If you have a small area or specific plants that you want to protect, you can use heat lamps or heating cables to keep them warm. The benefit of using heating sources to keep your plants protected is that it is much more comforting to know that they will not be exposed to any extreme temperatures throughout the hard freeze event. On the contrary, if you do have a well insulated area to keep heated, it can be quite cost inefficient to sustain a warm average temperature. I have experienced large increases in my utility bill during rapid freezing events. It should also be noted that there is always a chance that heater fails or a fire occurs due to a malfunction with the heating equipment. In both of these cases, significant damage can occur to both plant and property. Be sure to use these with caution and follow the manufacturer's instructions. 6. Prune your plants    Pruning your plants before a freeze can help to reduce the amount of exposed surface area that a plant has to the freezing air. This can be accomplished by removing any dead or damaged branches and leaves, as these can act as a conduit for the cold.    By following these tips, you can help to protect your garden from a hard freeze and keep your plants safe and healthy. Remember that while you can take steps to protect your garden, there is always a risk of damage or loss during a freeze. Be prepared for the worst and hope for the best.

The Dahlia is a flower that just exudes romance with every petal. Their intricate designs and vivid colors have been enchanting gardeners and flower enthusiasts for centuries, and they continue to hold a special place in the hearts of those who appreciate the beauty of nature. Dahlias are consistently one of the most popular and sought-after flowers around the world, and their beauty and versatility have made them a staple in floral design. These flowers can be found in a vast array of colors, shapes, and sizes, making them a go-to choice for designers and gardeners alike.  The purpose of the following guide is to offer some context on the process of planting and growing dahlias in Texas as well as to discuss some of the challenges associated with these plants and how to overcome them to produce a healthy crop to enjoy year after year.  My first few years of growing dahlias on my farm has taught me some tough lessons about tending to these amazing plants. I hope that some of my trials and experiences can give others the tools to succeed in cultivating these gorgeous blooms. Despite the challenges, the dahlia continues to be one of my favorite flowers to grow every year and truly represents, to me, what it looks like to be a flower farmer.  Selecting the Best Type of Dahlias to Plant in Texas Texas is NOT an easy place to grow Dahlias. A quick search on Wikipedia for Dahlia will reveal that these are plants native to Mexico and Central America, leading one to presume that these are heat loving plants.  Wrong.   While it is true that these plants have their origins in traditionally warmer climates, Dahlias are not very well-suited for extremely hot conditions. They generally prefer cooler temperatures and can struggle to photosynthesize and produce energy when it gets too hot.  When temperatures rise above 85-90°F (29-32°C), dahlias can experience heat stress, which can lead to a range of problems, including reduced growth, wilting, and flower drop. Additionally, high heat and humidity can create favorable conditions for pests and diseases that can also harm dahlias. This is why it is vital to properly select your dahlia varieties to meet the climatic demands of your region prior to purchasing your tubers. I have lost more dahlias than I care to admit because I chose the wrong varieties for my North Texas climate.  My first season, I selected my dahlia varieties from a website based solely on color and aesthetic. Being a complete novice, I did not think about the properties of each dahlia variety. As a general rule, I have found success with growing dahlias that have leaf profiles that are on the smaller scale.  Single-flowered dahlias, Anemone-flowered dahlias, Collarette dahlias, and some of the Decorative dahlias, including the 'Bishop of Llandaff' and 'David Howard' varieties, tend to be more heat tolerant compared to other dahlia types. These varieties have less dense and intricate petals, which allows them to tolerate high temperatures and maintain their form and color in hot weather. In contrast, Dahlias with fully double flowers, such as Waterlily dahlias, Pompon dahlias, and Peony-flowered dahlias, can struggle in very hot conditions. These varieties have dense, layered petals that can make it difficult for them to photosynthesize and produce enough energy to sustain the plant during the hottest periods of the summer. This is not to say that growing these types of dahlias in Texas is impossible. With the proper watering and shade covering during the intensely hot hours, these dahlias can do just as well as any other type of dahlia.  Here are five types of dahlia that I recommend starting in any Texas garden:  'Bishop of Llandaff': This dahlia variety has dark red flowers and black foliage that looks beautiful in landscapes. A similar variety but with coral flowers is "Mystic Spirit".   'Karma Choc': This dahlia has deep burgundy, almost black flowers and make for a great addition to the garden.  "Thomas Edison" : This is a purple dinnerplate dahlia that we've grown with much success, they make great cut flowers.  "Cornel" varieties: This type of dahlia comes in multiple different colors and seems to handle the heat here much better than a lot of the dinnerplate varieties. Also a great cut flower.  "Peaches N Cream": This dahlia variety is quite large and makes for the perfect cut flower.  Planting your Dahlias: Choosing a date: Dahlias are typically planted in the spring, after the danger of frost has passed. In Texas, this usually means planting in late March or early April. I have found that it is useful to utilize the Farmer’s Almanac in conjunction with tracking local weather forecasts to determine the best 1-2 week period in which to plant out.  If a significant freeze is expected, I have found it wise to practice patience and give the weather a chance to warm up before initial plant-out. Remember, this stage is when all plants are at their most vulnerable. We want to give them the best chance to succeed which sometimes means holding off and going with the flow of nature.  Pre sprouting: Pre-sprouting dahlia tubers is helpful for success in growing dahlias in Texas. By allowing the tubers to begin growing shoots indoors a few weeks before planting outdoors, they can establish stronger root systems and be more resistant to pests and diseases as well as give you the possibility for an extra (early summer) blooming period. Additionally, pre-sprouting can also help gardeners to identify any potential issues with their tubers before planting, such as rot or damage, which can be addressed before planting to increase the chances of a successful growing season.  Note: It is important to realize that, while pre-sprouting has terrific benefits for the plant, this process will expose an extremely temperature sensitive portion of the plant directly to the elements. It is crucial to take heed to the previous instruction of choosing your plant-out date wisely if you choose to pre-sprout.  Planting Dahlias with Bone Meal as a Soil Amendment While dahlias are considered to be plants that do well in poor soil, adding bone meal as a soil amendment can help to provide the dahlias with the nutrients they need to grow and bloom.  Bone meal is a natural source of phosphorus, which is essential for root growth and the development of healthy blooms. In my experience with growing dahlias, I have noticed a distinct difference when planting with the addition of bone meal versus when I have not. Tubers that I have planted with bone meal have developed significantly more tubers, on average, by the end of the season. Each of these additional tubers can be divided to create its own individual plant for the next season.  When planting, have a bucket of dry bone meal powder at the ready. After digging the hole for the tuber, take a small handful of bone meal from the bucket and place it directly into the hole. Next, take your tuber and plant it directly onto the dry bone meal powder and cover well with soil.   This one extra step while planting will give the young tuber a nutritious boost for healthy root growth early in season when they are at their most vulnerable. Dont worry too much about an exact amount per handful. Nature will use what it needs and find a way to use the rest.  The Proper Planting Procedure for Dahlias Dahlia spacing is a vital element for the success of the plant throughout the long season. The depth of tuber planting does not vary much depending on variety. Each tuber should be planted at a depth of 4-6 inches. This will help to protect the tubers from any harsh temperature fluctuations in early spring  and will also ensure that they have enough soil surrounding them to hold moisture and develop a strong initial root system. The more important factor is how much spacing there is in between each tuber. The horizontal spacing is usually determined based on the estimated size of the mature plant at full growth. Like with any other plant, the larger the variety, the more space there should be in between each plant. As a general rule, most dahlias are planted with 18-24 inches of horizontal spacing, but to ensure complete accuracy, it is highly recommended to research the particular variety you’re planting and follow the spacing instructions provided. The emphasis on the horizontal spacing of each variety is due to, both, the energy requirement of the plant while growing as well as the shading benefits of proper plant spacing. Planting varieties too close can cause the root systems to compete for soil nutrients early on, possibly stunting growth and production. Planting too far away can cause the hot overhead sun to dry the soil out and therefore the roots of the plant. Proper spacing will benefit the plant by allowing the growing foliage to keep a cooler and more moist soil to protect the health of the root system.  Watering Requirements for Dahlias in Texas If it's not apparent already, dahlias are one of more high-maintenance flowers to grow. This is also true when it comes to watering requirements. In my experience, finding the correct balance in the watering  schedule has been the toughest challenge I have faced. Not enough water and the delicate flowers will be at risk of heavy pest pressure or frying in the sun. Too much water and soil can over saturate causing tuber rot and ultimately complete plant failure.  These watering requirement challenges lend to why it is so important to prioritize overall soil health as well as following proper spacing instructions discussed in the above text. You should have healthy enough soil to retain moisture without becoming saturated, and you will want to reap the benefits of natural foliage shading in order to aid in having a consistent watering schedule. Bottom line, you do not want to have to be consistently over-correcting all season.  My recommendation, in conjunction with the previously mentioned tips, is to water deeply  once per week during the growing season. With that being said, Texas is known for its absurdly hot and dry periods throughout the summer months. During these periods where daytime temperatures consistently reach above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, I would suggest checking the top few inches of soil for moisture level and adding additional watering periods as needed. Make sure to approach these additional watering periods with caution, as one too many can easily saturate the soil leading to dreaded tuber rot. The Importance of Shading Dahlias from the Heat As I have mentioned, shading from the intense summer heat is crucial for sustaining dahlias throughout an entire growing season. Here are a few options for creating some much needed reprieve from the Texas sun:  Planting taller plants to the west of your dahlias: Dahlias need a solid 6 hours of direct sunlight during the day to grow to their full potential. They really only need protection from the harsh mid-afternoon sun that we get in Texas. Growing a vigorous vining plant on a trellis like hyacinth bean, which is capable of growing 10 feet during one season, is an effective option for safe-guarding your dahlias Planting in Pots:   If you are looking to enjoy the beauty of dahlias in your home garden, but don't plan on growing rows and rows of them, a great option is to plant your dahlias in a pot that can be placed or moved into a shaded location in the yard when those hot summer days move in.  Building a structural shade covering If you have the perfect spot in your yard to grow dahlias but it’s fully exposed to the sun throughout the day, it is possible to build a large overhead structure to hang a commercial grade shade cloth. This is certainly the most difficult and expensive route to take, but if you are a burgeoning farmer or just want to grow large areas of dahlias, this may be the best option. In this case, I would suggest using a shade cloth with no greater than a 40% shade density. Any more than this can block out too much sun, but will definitely mitigate the effects of harsh overhead sun. Best Practices for Harvesting When it comes time to harvest dahlias, there are some important details to keep in mind. There is nothing more frustrating than spending months caring for a crop only to mishandle the harvesting process and losing out on the reward for all of that hard work. 1.Starting with clean equipment You'll want to start by using clean shears for harvesting your stems to avoid bacteria from contaminating your stems. Using warm soap and water is sufficient for this step.   Get your stems in cool water immediately  Dahlias are hollow stemmed flowers. This means they do not have an adequate store of water in the stem after they are cut. Having a bucket of clean, cool water handy during harvesting will help to avoid plant shock and gives the stem an immediate source of hydration. You can prolong the vase life by 1-2 days by processing the stems properly. They generally only have a 4-6 day vase life when handled perfectly, so taking care in this step can significantly increase the life of your dahlia stems.  Sear the stems Searing your stems is the next step in processing. Have a pot of boiling water ready and sear the first 1-2 inches from the cut side of your stem for a couple of seconds. This helps to eliminate any remaining bacteria on the stem and creates a fresh surface area to aid in water absorption.  Cutting stems at a 45 degree angle underwater Try cutting the stems of your dahlia while holding it underwater at a 45 degree angle. Doing this helps to reduce the amount of air bubbles that build up, preventing water from getting all the way up the stem. Cutting at a 45 degree angle, with a sharp knife, helps to maintain a clean, smooth cut area which prevents bacteria build up.  Use pipe cleaners   Lastly, try using a wet pipe cleaner in the stem of the dahlia. With the dahlia being a hollow stemmed plant, a wet pipe cleaner in the stem can aid in multiple ways. For one, it can help keep a consistently hydrated environment in the stem over the life of the flower. Secondly, the pipe cleaner will work to add structure to the stem as dahlias tend to suffer from breakages with even the most careful handling.  

We made a big change in our growing methods this year by starting all of our seedlings in soil blocks rather than seed trays (shown below). There were multiple factors that played into this decision that we'll touch on in this blog as well as our soil blocking recipe and the purpose of all of the ingredients within that recipe.  The first reason we switched from seed trays to soil blocks is rather simple, they make for happier, healthier seedlings. A soil block is a free standing block of soil with a seed planted in the middle of it. As that seed sprouts and grows, it's roots hit the sidewalls of the block and do what we call "air pruning" this means that the tip of the root is pruned which therefore causes lateral roots to form off of that shoot and ultimately make for a healthier root system. When seedlings are grown in seed trays they often get rootbound or form matted roots which can (and often does) effect the plants long term health and ability to put out a healthy root system once in the ground.  Another perk of soil blocks is that there is little to no transplant shock when a seedling goes into the ground. This means that your seedlings will take off faster once planted as well as that you can now start specific seedlings ahead of time that you would normally only be able to directly sow into the garden (i.e. sunflowers, peas, etc.).  The second reason we started using soil blocks is that I got tired of having to buy new seed trays every year, it felt extremely wasteful and I found myself using seed trays that had been split in half to make them stretch longer and that just leads to seedlings on the ground and a lot of frustration. The only plastic used with soil blocks is the heavy duty restaurant serving trays (shown below) that we place the soil blocks onto. These however will last for a very long time and stack away nicely when not in use.  I'm first going to give you our soil blocking recipe and then break down each ingredient so that you know what it's purpose in the mix is.  Recipe: 3 quarts Peat Moss 2 quarts Perlite  1 quart Garden soil 1 quart Compost  1 cup Bloodmeal 1 cup Greensand 1 cup Bonemeal 2 tbsp Cinnamon     The Peat Moss adds body and structure to the soil blocks, playing the most important role in keeping it all together.  Compost adds organic matter to the mix. Garden Soil (from your personal garden or planting area) allows seedlings to be partially accustomed to the type of soil that you have and therefore reduce transplant shock at the time of planting. This step should be skipped if there's a chance your garden soil has herbicides or disease within it.  Perlite is extremely important and adds aeration to the mix, allowing seedlings to more freely put out roots.  Greensand, Bloodmeal and Bonemeal are all organic sources of Potassium, Nitrogen and Phosphorus in that order. So by adding a small amount to your soil mix your giving your seedlings their necessary nutrition for the time that their in their soil blocks.  Lastly, the Cinnamon is a brilliant addition that helps to prevent the growth of algae on your soil blocks which if you've grown seedlings before you know that algae can be a big nuisance.  Soil Blocking Tips: Bottom water or mist soil blocks to avoid breaking them apart with a strong spray of water.  The 3/4" soil blocks (small size) are excellent for starting seeds that have a poor germination rate and then when they sprout you can pop that tiny soil block into the larger 2" block to grow out.  My favorite soil block however is the 1.5" size, it's extremely versatile and works for 90% of seed varieties.    Links:  Soil Blocks : https://www.johnnyseeds.com/search/?q=soil+blocks&search-button=&lang=en_US Lunch Trays: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/search/plastic-food-trays.html   Thank you so much for reading and I happy gardening!!   

Two parts Hydrogen, one part oxygen; H20; water.    Humans and plants alike survive and thrive off of this critical element of life. But is all water created equally?    Before I became a flower farmer, I thought so. I didn't realize how wrong I was until I became responsible for the raising of all my beautiful little plant babies. That is when I realized how perfect nature was in creating rainwater.    The benefits of rainwater are myriad. It is naturally free of many of the harsh chemicals that are commonly found in tap water like chlorine, fluoride and aluminum. These chemicals can be harmful to young plants and can even cause damage to the delicate root systems of seedlings and transplants. This is usually referred to as "root burn". Rainwater is much softer than tap water, meaning that it is less likely to contain high concentrations of minerals and salts that can accumulate in soil and damage plants over time.    Additionally, rainwater tends to naturally fall at a PH (5.0-5.5) that is more naturally suited for young seedlings than tap water. Ideally, tap water should be tested and monitored regularly to ensure it remains suitable for growing plants. This can be done with a simple, store bought water testing kit at your local hardware store.    Rain water also generally falls at ideal temperatures that the fragile root systems of young seedlings can handle. This is especially important for young transplants, as it can help them to establish roots more quickly. The ideal water temp can also help to stimulate growth and encourage healthy development during those critical early days in your garden.    So how do we best utilize this vital resource in our farming and gardening practice?    Unfortunately, there can be limitations to an individual's ability and capacity to capture and store rainwater. Many states and municipalities have strict rules and regulations against the collection of rainwater due to health and safety concerns. Before building containment structures and collecting rainwater in your yard, it is recommended to check with your local state or city officials to ensure compliance with local laws.    If you are unable to harvest rainwater in your area, your best bet is keep a keen eye on the weather. Many farmers and home gardeners will set their planting schedules to coincide with a good spring rain. The immense advantage of even one thorough rain when your plant babies go in the ground will yield excellent results compared with watering with regular tap water on the week of your planting.    As a commercial flower farmer, I have personally seen these advantageous in my own practice and will continue to use this strategy in the years to come. Remember, farming and gardening is a constant learning process and no matter your experience or skill level, working in conjunction and harmony with nature will always produce the best results!

Quick Tip : While there are many different varieties of peony's to choose from, here in North Texas it's recommended to go with an early blooming variety so as to not risk the peonies blooming cycle to be affected by our quick to rise summer temperatures. Tip 1: Peony roots can come in many shapes and sizes. The size of the root doesn't necessarily correlate with total plant potential, however the more nodes a root contains the more shoots it'll send up and therefore have a bit of a jump start over roots with just a singular node. You usually have no choice of how many nodes your roots will have when they come in, the roots featured below came out of the same bag. The photos below also show the difference between a root with a singular node and one that has 4-5. The ideal planting time for these roots is late fall or early winter here in North Texas. Tip 2: Location is key Just to be clear in this article we're talking about herbaceous garden peonies (hardy in zones 3-8) that prefer full sun and not tree peonies (hardy in zones 5-9) that prefer dappled shade. When choosing the spot for your peonies keep in mind that they don't appreciate the hot western sun that we have in Texas but at the same time need at least 6 hours of direct sun. There are multiple solutions for this. Planting them on the eastern side of your home for example or in my case planting taller annuals on the western side of the peonies. The annuals will act as shade as the afternoon wears on. Tip 3: Proper Preparation The first thing to remember when unpacking your peonies is to go ahead and set them into a clean bucket with room temperature water. This will re hydrate the roots if they've been sent in dry packaging material. I usually do this for 2-4 hours but a little more or less won't hurt them. While they're soaking you can go ahead and prep the spot that you're going to plant your peonies in. First thing is to dig a hole 12-18 inches deep and about the same width. Next you'll want to back fill your hole with compost/manure, any soil amendments you might want to add and the native soil. This gives your new peony root lots of loose soil and nutrients to thrive on in it's first year.   Tip 4: Don't Plant too Deep A very underrated but important thing to remember when planting your peony roots is that the nodes/buds need to be exposed to cold weather, the way that we're going to accomplish that is by having them only about 1 inch under the surface of the soil. This will ensure that they're still getting those chilly nighttime temps. It'll feel odd but trust the process. Once planted, water your roots in thoroughly and feel proud that you've started the process of growing one of the most gorgeous plants that this world has to offer.

It's crazy to believe that we're already over half way through July, and here at B.Blumen Flower Farm we've been harvesting our Glads every day starting in April and plan to keep on doing so until early November. How is that possible? Well in this article I'll give you everything I know about when and how to plant Glads as well as the decisions you have to make along the way! Like everything we have to start at the beginning, it's so very very important that when you get that first beautiful shipment of Gladiolus corms (bulbs) you keep them in a dry, dark and cool place. For us at the farm that's a back corner of the farm shed that we keep at 60 degrees. The reasoning for this is that sun and warmth can spur the corms into sprouting in the box (crazy I know) which isn't necessarily the end all be all assuming you get them in the ground shortly after sprouting but you don't want them trying to grow there, and keeping them dry is simply because otherwise they'll rot. Next is soil preparation, Gladiolus is a relatively easy crop to grow when it comes to soil prep. They can be planted in the ground or in a pot as long as they have about 6" of root space depth and a reasonably balanced soil. Another thing to keep in mind is that Glads do not appreciate what we farmers call "wet feet" this simply means that they don't want to sit in any kind of water for an extended period of time. They need to be planted in a well draining area. Once these factors are assessed, and about 2 weeks before your last frost date, you can go ahead and plant the corms! Make sure that they're planted right side up (pointy end up) and between 2"- 6" deep depending on the size of the corm with a spacing of 4" between corms. The last question is to pull or not to pull the corms out of the ground. First of all I would never recommend harvesting your bulbs out of the ground while the foliage is still green. You need to give the plant a few months after flowering to continue to grow next years corms as well as baby corm-lets that will keep you from ever having to buy new bulbs every year. You'll know it's time to harvest your bulb when the foliage of the plant has gone brown and dry generally this happens after the first frost of the season, at this time you can carefully dig your bulbs out of the ground, let them dry and store them in a cool dark place until it's time to put them out again. You also have the choice to not dig them at all and allow them to overwinter in your garden (only an option in certain zones) at which point you'll have the earliest flowering gladiolus of the next year with the only drawback being that they're no longer succession planted and will come up at the same time. At our farm we leave a bed of Gladiolus in the ground to be our early blooms and then pull the rest and store them to use for the next years succession planting. Let me know if you enjoyed this article by leaving a comment below, and I'd love to hear your ideas for things you'd like to hear more about when it comes to flower farming or farming in general! So now you have your first batch of bulbs planted! It'll take them 70-90 days to flower and unfortunately all of the bulbs that you planted in this batch are going to bloom within 2 weeks of each other meaning that you'll be left with a pretty yet unproductive batch of greenery once their done. So how do you keep the blooms coming?? This is where succession planting comes in. To keep your gladiolus constantly blooming you need to add corms to your garden every 2 weeks. This will stagger your bloom time and once your first batch starts, like a domino effect your planting from months before will keep you harvesting all season!

All of the flowers listed below are easy to start from seed (or bulb) and grow with little to no maintenance in North Texas!  Spring flowering:       1. Larkspur Larkspur is an annual variety of delphinium and handles the North Texas climate a lot better than it's perennial cousin. Seeds are directly sown into the soil in the fall so that they go through a period of cold stratification and then sprout in the Spring with very little maintenance in between. Plants will grow a large central stem with one main flower, once that flower is cut the plants will branch and make 5-15 smaller but still very usable stems. Plants will begin to lose steam in late spring when night time temperatures begin to warm up.        Gladiolus:  Grown from bulbs, Glads have gotten a bad reputation for being only associated with funerals and being too long, gangly and awkward. Those aren't the ones I'm talking about, we grow what's called "flag" gladiolus. This means that the bulbs we use are smaller than the commercially grown ones and therefore put up smaller more petite blooms with 8-12 florets. As far as growing goes they're as simple as placing the bulbs in the ground in early spring and patiently waiting. You can expect blooms about 70 days after planting. Pro Tip: Check out our blog post all about Gladiolus here:  Summer flowering:    Zinnia:  Easily started from seed in trays or directly sown into the field, zinnias are an absolute powerhouse for our farm. They come in a ton of different sizes, shapes and colors and grow without issue through the hottest parts of the summer as long as they are kept deadheaded and supported with either a stake or netting. My favorite varieties are Queen Red Lime, Benarys Giant  and Oklahoma.      Celosia:  This group of flowers is extremely broad varying from the Cockscomb series that looks like underwater coral to the Pampas Plume varieties that resemble feathery fire and a lot more. They can be started in seed trays or directly sown into the garden, don't expect seeds to germinate until soil warms, they love the heat. They'll be one of the last things in the garden to wilt on those hot 100 degree days and will hold up in a vase for 10-14 days without issue.    Sunflower:  Split into 2 main groups, Single Stem varitites and Branching varities, Sunflowers are a gorgoeus focul stem to have in the garden. With the single stem varieties you have to keep in mind that 1 seed will turn into 1 plant which will give you 1 flower. These single stem varieties can be planted as close as 4"-6" and in fact should be planted closely to keep the stems from getting as thick as broomhandles. Branching varities need far more space, taking up about 18"-24" per plant however you'll get anywhere from 8-12 stems per plant. Sunflowers have a long taproot that dosen't like to be disturbed so I've found the easiest way to grow them is to just directly sow them into the garden at a depth of 1/2 inch.    I hope you enjoyed this little article! Follow us on Facebook for more content like this! 

Making the decision to start your cut flower or vegetables from seeds rather than buying plugs or plants from your local nursery will save you an enormous amount of money on your 2021 season. Let's talk about how you do it! Where to Order from and what to check before you do! My favorite sources to go to when ordering my flower and vegetable seeds for the season are JohnnySeeds.com and HarrisSeeds.com . Both have excellent variety and decent prices especially if you're ordering in any kind of bulk. A couple of things worth considering when picking out your seeds for the season are whether or not they need to be started in seed trays (what this article is about) or if you can just directly sow them into your beds. Also make sure that your familiar with your outdoor growing area and what kind of sun you get there, your plant varieties will heavily depend on where you land on the full sun to shade spectrum. Planting Early...but not too Early You want to give your seedlings plenty of time to mature and fill out their plug trays, while at the same time not leaving them in too long so that they get root bound. Luckily your seed packet will have the ideal starting times where it will tell you the right time to plant depending on your last frost date. Don't Forget to Thin! A few weeks in, your seedlings are starting to put on their second set of true leaves and look crowded because more than one seed per cell has germinated. This means it's time to go in and choose the strongest from the pack, taking a sharp pair of scissors and cutting the rest off at their base. A strong seedling is defined by having a good set of leaves, isn't particularly taller or shorter from the rest of the seedlings and is as centered in the cell as possible.   Be Careful with Fertilizer I know it's tempting but you have to be very careful with fertilizing your seedlings. Over fertilizing can burn the tender roots and foliage of seedlings. Optimally the best seedling fertilizer has a NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) ratio of 1-2-1.   Harden Off and Start Planting! Finally it's time to get your beautiful little seedlings into the ground! In the week before planting out make sure that you get your seedlings outdoors every day for a few hours to get them acquainted to the harsher sun, wind and weather that the outdoors has to offer. On the day of planting water your seed trays well, plant them in their final spot and water them in. After that they've officially graduated from seedlings to independent little plants.